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Entries in Denmark (3)


Alternative Copenhagen

We had an interesting day exploring the other side of Copenhagen. While most of the city is stylish Danish design, Christiania is an anarchist haven that declared independence from Denmark in 1971. The ~850 citizens of Christiania are a mix of hippies, druggies and anarchists (or a mixture of each), and the occupation of prime real-estate in the centre of Copenhagen causes controversy. Overall though, it is an interesting community to walk through, serves as a haven for those with no place in society and is surely a major improvement over the homelessness and social isolation that this population is forced into in other cities. I'm sure that Christiania actually saves the government a lot of money through crime reduction and social benefits.

A wishing tree installed by Yoko Ono. Most of the wishes were for world peace or such, but this guy just wanted a really big yacht.

A fantastic twist on street food, with an old warehouse converted to house food trucks.


Signs, Statutes and Science (?)

Off to Copenhagen for another conference, this one on rheumatoid arthritis. I had the morning free before the conference so I wandered around central Copenhagen. Despite being in a cranky mood after a lack of sleep in my hotel, I was soon chuckling as Doug Lansky, from Lonely Planet, had set up a street exhibit with reproductions of amusing signs people had seen around the world. I thought of Lydia for the "Changed Priorities Ahead" sign and Russell for "No Windpassing", while my personal favourite may have been the directions to the "Secret Nuclear Bunker".

With the rest of my morning I took a cruise around Copenhagen.

"København" is a corruption of "købmannehafen", meaning merchants’ harbour, and much of the city's design since its foundation in 1167 is based on the building of canals and ports for merchants. From the land you can't really appreciate just how much the ocean penetrates Copenhagen, but on our little boat we were able to nip up narrow canals and under low bridges to see the many beautiful buildings of the city.

Of course we had to visit the Little Mermaid. Now the most famous statue of Copenhagen, it was designed by a little-known sculptor Edvard Erichsen as a gift from Carlsberg Breweries to the city of Copenhagen, to celebrate Hans Christian Andersen. Carl Jacobsen saw the dancer Ellen Price dance Fini Henrique's ballet "The Little Mermaid" in 1909 and asked her to be the model for the statue.

She agreed, but backed down when Edvard Erichsen said he wanted her to be naked. In a move which must have caused marital tension, Edvard used his wife as the naked model and put Ellen Price's head on her body.

Off to the conference. I had forgotten how cranky medical conferences make me, but I soon remembered. For a conference with 15,000 people the halls for the talks only sat around 100 each. Sadly, even then the hall didn't completely fill up, so I have my doubts that many medicos actually earn that "Certificate of Continuing Medical Education" they picked up on the first day to prove that they are up to date with the latest biomedical results. Instead all the medicos were milling around the commercial product show. In a scientific conference you'll be lucky to get a few pens and maybe a crummy T-shirt.

Not so at medical conferences. You can almost hear the sponsorship money sloshing around. The USB-drive with the conference abstracts on it was bound in leather (why do you want a leather-bound USB drive?). As an invited speaker they gave me a limited run reproductive of a royal wedding broach designed by the goldsmith Ghita Ring. Some companies hired origami folders, other set up a cafe giving away personalised smoothies and hot chocolate, some used a robotic engraver to give away personalised dictaphones, others gave away beer and wine. A company selling deluxe kitchen-ware didn't even pretend to be medically related, and just took orders for different kitchen gadgets. There were large touch screens everywhere, designer furniture and gadgets. Companies set up gaming units for all the medicos, water-skiing simulators and quiz shows.

It was depressing to see how many Rheumatologists got wrong all the questions on contra-indications for prescriptions or even the "in this diagram which cell is the T cell". I just hope I never get treated by anyone on team B, who finished with zero points. I assume that all this junk works on at least some medicos, or Big Pharma wouldn't spend more on advertising than on biomedical research. It would be more honest if they just wrote a cheque to every doctor if they promise to inject Drug X into their patients. Being pulled into a "relaxation zone" by one of the reps I was asked to give my impressions of the display. I replied that they must think doctors are corrupt or infants if they think they can persuade them to chose their patients drugs based on which company provided the most entertaining magician. I was so cranky I left before the welcoming party began.


Ah, Scandinavia

The pleasure of being in Europe, when our flight (from Seattle to Brussels) has a five hour stop-over in Copenhagen, we get hours to walk around the city. Immigration takes only minutes, with adequate staffing and a quick look at our passports, and then a high-speed train from the airport to the city centre is only twelve minutes.

We started at Kobenhavn Hovedbanegarden (the cntral train station) and set off on our walk. It was a simply beautiful day to spend walking around Copenhagen. Sunny blue skies with just a wisp of cloud, warm sun and beautiful Scandinavian-style houses lining the cobble-stone streets. We didn’t have time to enjoy the number one attraction in Copenhagen, the amusement park Tivoli just outside the train station, so we just walked around its outskirts to enjoy the beautiful gateways.

Then we were in Radhuspladsen, a beautiful cobblestone square filled with stunning animalistic Mayan-style statues coated in a green patina, some of the few statues I’ve seen where I had to tear myself away from looking at them, so intriguing were their details. The square is just next to the Radhus (City Hall)and the start of the Stroget. Oddly the square was populated by an American Indian band.

The Stroget is the world’s longest pedestrian mall, running through the length of the centre of Copenhagen and lined with boutiques and cafes, with the occasional square. The city is so quiet and peaceful. Even a square filled with people is not loud. Maybe it is due to coming straight from America, where you can hear "private" conversations ten metres away? Or the traffic, which is largely silent bicycles gliding by, rather than noisy cars (and no one bothers to lock their bicycle up - who would steal bikes from Danes?).

At the end of Stroget we stopped at Kongens Nytorv for a sandwich and a beer, then we walked down Nyhavn, a beautiful canal street, with gorgeous houses (including one where Hans Christian Anderson lived), many boats and so many people out. Even on this, the busiest street we saw, when we stepped off the main street to see the embassy of Trinidad and Tobago we were struck at just how silent it was.

From Nyhavn we walked up to Amhaliehaven, where a group of girls were posing by the photos in Japanese anime set up, then walked to Amalienborg Slot, where Princess Mary lives. Lydia wanted to say hello but she was back in Hobart. Marmorkirken Church was interesting, then a walk to the gardens of Kongens Have, with beautiful landscaped grass and people lying around to enjoy the sun.

Copenhagen is a beautiful city, surprisingly peaceful for a city its size.